Unguided Blog

True to the tradition of traveling unguided, here is a quick tip to reach Aphrodisias with no tourist agent or tour bus involved. For the free spirited with a low budget who can not afford to renting a car and have a crush on Aphrodite…

As is often the case in most Turkish destinations of historical importance, no one has ever considered the possibility that travelers may not wish to use an intermediary; not because it is expensive or (add your favorite word here), but they are travelers after all, not tourists.

The antique city of Aphrodisias (Karia) where the archaeologists have been digging since 1904 (starting with Paul Gaudin, then Prof. Dr. T. Kenan Erim and R. R. Smith), hosts Hellenistic and Roman settlements and is located in Geyre (derived from Karia), a difficult place to reach, indeed.

If using public transport, your primary target should be reaching Nazilli, not a difficult proposition. Take a bus, train, air+road, or any combination you like. In Nazilli bus terminal, you will get on minibuses (I like this word) departing to Karacasu - your second target - usually every 15 minutes (Take the timetable with a grain of salt; you are in the land of people where 100 meters can be 50-300 meters, and 5-minutes means between 1 to 10). From Karacasu, you will once again get on those lovely buses to your final destination Geyre village. Geyre is on the route to Aphrodisias and buses usually drop you there if you request it. How will you request it, you might ask. I can not guarantee a foreign language speaking driver but saying “Aphrodisias?” with accent on the last syllable should do the trick.

I hardly use public transport in Istanbul. Well, that may sound snobbish but what I actually mean is I’m usually on foot or on a bike. If I have to go anywhere in the city, I take great care so that my destination is accessible by ferry, subway or light rail. If I can not reach them using the above, I avoid such places; and this you might call snobbish.

It is a great pleasure to watch the birds, the constant hikers of the trains and ferries; the living proof of Darwin’s theory of evolution. I invite anyone opposing the theory to Istanbul, to take a ride with me.

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It leaves without a hassle from Haydarpasa everyday, destination: Adapazari; and so it is appropriately called: Adapazari Express. Filled with workers and students, but especially workers, it runs back and forth during the day. The regulars of early morning and late evening departures are easy to spot. Tired, seldom in the mood for chat, living in their own worlds, trying to get some rest and above all, accumulate strength to make it again another day, for tomorrow.

As soon as it clears Bostanci, it gains some momentum, as if it knows it has its real customers on board now, not those who sneak in to reach the suburbs of Istanbul faster. Electric powered, it runs as if it is tearing the air and the ground apart, regretting the laws of physics that restrain it. Arrogant and selfish, it is way different than its predecessors. I remember.

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I occasionally come across this question in travel forums and the similar: “How can I go to Sabiha Gokcen Airport from Istanbul International (Ataturk) Airport?” As there is no direct shuttle available, people who like to travel without a tourism company and with a tight budget usually want to learn if there is an economic way. Well, yes, there is.

A little geography first. Istanbul Airport is the main international air gateway for Turkey and situated on the almost far western edge of Istanbul, at the European side as the locals call it. Whereas the recently built Sabiha Gokcen is on the far eastern edge, at the Asian side, mostly used for domestic flights and some charters. The following is not only the cheapest but also maybe the fastest way if you strike rush hour traffic. It is convenient, relaxed and air-conditioned all the way.

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